Coriander Leaf

Last week we joined a bunch of friends for a Thai cooking class at the Coriander Leaf Restaurant and cooking school in Singapore.  It was fantastic.


So many of our favorite Thai foods on the menu - pomello salad, Tom Yum soup, Green Curry.  We broke into randomly selected teams of 4 and were assigned several recipes.





I took on the task of making the pomello salad thinking it would be quick and easy. It actually turned out to be the most labor intensive time consuming dish on the menu.  Do you know how long it takes just to hand peel 4 pomellos?

A rare site...Kingsley in the kitchen doing something other than cleaning up after me (his specialty).





Best part of the evening was sitting down together to eat all of our recipes. It was seriously one of the best Thai meals I have ever had. I suspect knowing how much work went into making it all happen made everything much tastier.



Quick trim at the airport

I guess its good to be prepared for a little downtime while waiting for your next flight but its a little scary to think that he got that razor through security!


Kittens - Smash and Pico

We have another set of adorable kittens running around.  I got them when they were 3 weeks old which meant round-the-clock feedings every 3 hours for the first week and a half.  We have finally graduated from kitten formula to solid food and the night feeds are no longer required which is great.  I just love having these little guys around.

Little Miss Pico 

 Smash



Korea - DMZ

While in Seoul I had the chance to tour one of the most dangerous and militarized regions on the planet — the Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea. The DMZ is the most tensely guarded border in the world, with over a million soldiers from three nations keeping watch on the 250 kilometer no man’s land.


The North continues to deny that they are the ones who invaded the South prompting the Korean War, and they also deny that they have made several other attempts since the the DMZ was created to infiltrate South Korean soil. Of these attempts they’ve dug four tunnels (that have been discovered), and our first stop on the tour allowed us to enter into the third tunnel discovered in 1978.

After putting on the required hard hats we descended a 300 meter (984 ft.) ramp that led us into a long dark this granite passage. Pictures were not allowed in the tunnel but more info with pictures can be found at http://www.f-106deltadart.com/Korea-DMZ/tunnels.htm





From on top of this mountain, we could see for miles into North Korea with the aid of powerful binoculars. Just over the border we could easily see Kijongdon, the propaganda village that the North built to project economic wealth and prosperity to anyone watching and possibly desiring to defect from the South.  There are no residents in the village, except for soldiers. Evidently some lights do come on at night but they are always the same buildings, at the same time. From a distance, it looks like the buildings have windows but there is not even glass in the buildings.


Ironically, the world's tallest flag tower is in Kijong-dong at 160m tall. It is in the Guinness World Book of Records as well. It was not originally the tallest - the tallest was on the south side in Daeseong-dong. When Daeseong-dong flag pole was extended, the north responded by extending theirs taller, sometimes touted as the "flagpole war".

Here is a shocking view of North Korea and South Korea from space. North Korea appears to be uninhabited because the country is virtually without electricity, as evident in this nighttime satellite photo showing only its capital of Pyongyang as a tiny spot within its borders illuminated.


 

Another stop on the tour took us to Dorasan Station which sits just on the South Korean side of the border.  It was built as a beacon of hope for reunification on the Korean peninsula; it is currently the last station going north in South Korea. Its tracks hope to connect the still divided Korean people. Currently the only visitors to Dorasan Station are tourists, like myself, wanting to learn more about the North and South’s history.

A sign in the lobby reads, “Not the last station from the South, But the first station toward the North.”


Spending the day in a war zone was an amazing but chilling experience for me.  The day ended on a high note as the Korean soldiers at the train station were formal but friendly and open to posing in a photo with me.  

A book I just finished and would highly recommend reading to learn more about North Korea is: Escape from Camp 14


Korea - Seoul Searching

I find Seoul a vibrant and fascinating city. There is so much to do and see and though this was my second visit I feel like I am just in the early stages of learning about this amazing place.

A few of my favorite things while exploring Seoul:


Candies and cakes designed to look like fruits and other such yummy things

Nothing like a little bit of "Endress Love"

Just a tiny bit of duty free shopping

Exploring the side streets of Itewon

Enjoying another fantastic meal in Korea

Korea - Gangnam Style

While in Seoul Kingsley and I stayed in Gangnam a district of Seoul which is very up market and fashion focused. This music video went viral the week we were staying in Gangnam so it was the topic of many conversations. It has since become a worldwide phenomenon making it on the top 10 Google search list last month and has had more than 350 million views.


 

Korea - Typhoon Sanba

We arrived on Jeju island Saturday morning and were greeted by the Korea military handing out emergency pamphlets to all arriving passengers. Through this we learned that Super Typhoon Sanba was heading right for Jeju island and was scheduled to arrive Sunday evening and linger till Tuesday.  This posed quite a problem for us as our flight off the island was scheduled for Monday morning, right in the middle of the Typhoon, and would no doubt be canceled. 

And so on Sunday morning we - doing what every other sane person on Jeju island was also doing - rushed to the airport to try and find a flight off the island.  The airport was absolute chaos, all flights off the island were sold out, all standby seats taken.  Hardly anyone spoke English and after waiting in line after line only to be told "sold out" we were nearly resigned to the fact that we may just be stuck on this tiny island to wait out the Typhoon.  A TINY added complication was that Kingsley was expected to give a presentation in Seoul Korea at a work event late Monday morning.  


In a last ditch effort Kingsley suggested I call the American Express concierge line to see if they might be able to help us find some flight off the island.  I have to say I have never been so impressed with a credit card company in my life.  Within about 15 minutes they had miraculously found seats on a 4:50pm flight off Jeju island to Ulsan Korea a small southern coastal town but at least on the mainland.  From there they booked us on another flight that would get us into Seoul in time for Kingsley's work event.  We were thrilled but also a little anxious as the Typhoon was scheduled to hit Jeju at 6pm and our flight off the island was just an hour before that deadline.

We spent the next few hours waiting for our flight, watching the weather turn from a light drizzle to a major storm and constantly checking the reader boards hoping that they would not cancel our flight.


Our luck (if you can call it lucky to end up on an island with a Typhoon heading your way) held out and we boarded the very last flight out of Jeju island for the next two days.  All flights scheduled after ours on the reader board were cancelled.

It was quite an eventful 45 min flight - very turbulent.  There was no doubt that Typhoon Sanba was hot on our tail. It took the pilot 4 (last minute aborted) attempts before finally landing at Ulsan airport.  Kingsley who survived the process of getting his private pilots license seemed unfazed by this but I have never been so thankful to get my feet on the ground.

Of course we arrived to a deserted airport with all flights canceled including the one that was to take us to Seoul. One very kind airport attendant informed us that there was an overnight train that traveled from Ulsan to Seoul so we rushed off to the train station along with nearly everyone else from our flight in hopes of getting on the train.

We were able to get tickets on the train.  There were only first class seats still available so I wasnt complaining. However, after a day full of unexpected surprises I kept waiting for the train to break down or stop due to weather forcing Kingsley and I to ride bikes or hitchhike our way to the Park Hyatt in Seoul.  Thankfully this didnt happen and we made it to Seoul exhausted but in one piece.


Finally on the train bound for Seoul.

I was so hungry I devoured a cucumber, ham, pickle, kimchee, mustard sandwhich on wonder bread. It was amazing!

Korea - Jeju Island

Jeju island is known as the island of the gods and the Hawaii (and top honeymoon destination) of Korea.  Its a small volcanic island about an hours flight south from Seoul.  We went to explore Jeju over a long weekend blissfully unaware till moments before our flight that there was a massive Typhoon heading right for the island (to be covered in another post). 

Beautiful volcanic rock structures formed as hot lava reached the ocean at Jusangjeolli cliffs. 




The women of Jeju have a reputation for strength. The island is famous for its haenyeo, female divers who gather abalone and other seafood for up to five hours a day in the cold sea — without scuba gear.
They are able to dive 20 meters deep and hold their breath for over 2 minutes.  It's a dying profession as the younger generation of girls have no interest in learning the diving skills.  Most of the divers now are 60-80 years old. 


Our guide told us an interesting fact that unlike the rest of Asia where having a boy is the most cherished thing - on Jeju island woman would hope for a girl so that she could provide for the family by becoming a diver.

Buddhist temple on Jeju island 

Kingsley drinking the holy spring water at the Buddhist temple.  Still not sure what the perks of drinking the water was supposed to be but it can never hurt to add a little holy water into the mix. An  added bonus - we didnt get sick from it!

Because of the relative isolation of the island, the people of Jeju have developed a culture and language that is distinct from those of mainland Korea. Jeju is home to thousands of local legends. Perhaps the most distinct cultural icon is the dol hareubang ("stone grandfather") carved from a block of basalt. There are a total of 45 of them that still exist on the island.



Cheonjiyeon Waterfall

Our trip to Jeju was cut a little short (stupid typhoon) but we loved the parts of the island that we were able to see and hopefully we will go back one day to explore a little more of this exotic island.